Yellowstone

Aug 19
Flight to Salt Lake City (SLC) was uneventful. rented Korean car, Kia. Happened to be pretty good car. Drove 5 hrs to Jackson through Utah, Wyoming, Idaho and again Wyoming. right after SLC the scenery was similar with Sedona area, I.e. Layered Rocks formation of red color. And similar shape. Later It changed to Pastoral. Green hills, smell of fresh grass, birches and poplars. caught a rain, passed quickly. These States are... Empty. We drove big tens of miles from one tiny village to another. gas stations Or McDonalds are in 100 miles intervals. had to stop pee right on the road. but the driving itself was relaxed, pleasant and beautiful.
Jackson what we saw walking in the dark is cute town. tomorrow will see more. it is an Entrance to the Great Teton. Btw, the name was given by French explorer and Teton means tits. Well, we saw the shapes off two big hills around in the dark. may be that's it?
it is 2000m elevation here, and we felt a bit lightheaded, though unclear why, altitude or long day of flying and driving.
stay in motel 6 one night. Here there are a bunch of Romanian kids working at front desk as student exchange. They got a kick from Theo talking Romanian to them. I guess he was the first they saw here.
Tomorrow we move to Grand Tetons.

Aug 20
Exploring grand Tetons. Bright sunny day. Smell of pines bathed in the sun.
took tons of pics of snowed cupped Tetons. lakes are incredibly blue.
on the road to the Signal mountain summit Theo saw a huge grizzly eating mushrooms masliata and mohoviki in abandons here. they looked into each other eyes. I was in the Car. what a regret.

Aug 21

6:15 Arrived to Yellowstone. unexpectedly,it took us 2 hrs to drive to our lodge from the YS southern entrance. From Great Tetons to YS is about 15-30 min drive,but....Yellowstone is.....huge. From the entrance to our Canyon lodge is 59 miles. We stopped on the way to watch elks.... it is unbelievable watching these big animals yet so peaceful, even tender..I could not take my eyes off.

Great Tetons are the beautiful high mountains with harp peaks, still with snow and glaciers. Yellowstone so far is what we saw is a big plain which is hue caldera from volcano eruption. The most of the road goes along very big lake,Yellowstone lake, I think it is bigger than Tahoe. elevation is 7700 feet. then along Yellowstone river which goes to the lake. at some points there were pretty good rapids. then..... There was a big big opening like green pastures, so beautiful in the evening sun. and... There where we saw the herds of bisons or buffalo. We stopped as other many cars did too. People were watching with binoculars, cameras ready. and told the story that there was one bison dead, we saw him. he was killed last night by wolfs, and now grizzly are coming to eat him. so, most of people we waiting for grizzly. we did not. these bisons are really huge, black. some were bathing in the dust like Trixie likes to do in the grass.

Finally arrived at the lodge, got our cabin in the woods. rustic but comfy. right in the pine forest. while I am writing this it is started to rain. it was a long day with strenuous but very beautiful hike in the cascade canyon of great Tetons. we got there by boat crossing Jenny lake. then started ascend to the Hidden Falls, waterfalls coming from the glaciers of the highest Teton. huge and powerful waterfall later becoming a river with big rapids running to the Jenny lake.
Got up to the inspiration point which is a spot high up with the great view of the Jenny lake and the Great Tetons valley. then we went west to the heart of the canyon. canyon was pretty narrow with very tall, rocky cliffs which are the slopes of Great Teton peaks. later the trail came to the forest area. stopped for snack and rest and went back.
Then said Thank you and good bye to Great Tetons and drove to YS.

Aug 22
Woke up to the sound of rain on the roof of the cabin, smell of the wet pine forest coming from the open window. Such sweet and comforting feeling. Childhood.

Aug 23

finally I adjusted. To... Altitude? new place?
slept well, feel good... morning is sunny, bright, cold... we had our oats and instant coffee,thanks to little kettle bought in Amsterdam, and off we go for a hike to see Uncle Tom in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.

Writing sitting in the car at the end of the day at Uncle Tom trail waiting for Jan and John. They are our friends from LA who joined us yesterday coming from a trip to Idaho and Montana. we met with them during lunch today after Theo and I already did our morning hike to Uncle Tom and Artist point.

So I start with a little detour to yesterday.
Last night in the cabin was a fairy tale. We went out for dinner to the cafeteria in the village. Btw, the system is very interesting here. You can eat all you want that fits on the plate. There are three types of plates with prices attached: small plate $7, mid $10 and large $14. huge variety of food starting with salads, veggies fresh and cooked, grains, pasta and a big assortment of cooked meat and fish. After dinner we went to treat ourselves to ice-cream, and that's when it started to pour, and the temperature dropped. so we hanged around the shop as many the people did.
Eventually we ran to the car, came home to the cabin, turned the heater on, got to bed and read listening to the sound of rain drumming on the roof of the cabin.
You understand the feeling. It was fairly early to sleep and... no cleaning, washing dishes, no laundry, No Internet, no tv, no telephone..... Books!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today we woke up, as I already mentioned, into a sunny morning with crisp cold air, fresh smell of after rain forest.
We went to see the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. You know, after what we saw yesterday and today, my message to all my friends would be the following: before going to faraway places, please, make your first priority trip to Yellowstone.

It is such a wonder that I am not sure I can describe. yesterday we took a trip to the Thermal area of YS: Mammoth and Norris. I have mentioned already that YS is created
by a huge volcano eruption. So, the earth crust in some places is so thin and the thermal activity is literally just below the surface. I do not mention that the smell of sulfur hydrate and sulfur dioxide is everywhere. Reminded me my dear Monchegorsk. But the hot springs, geysers, boiling mud spots, deposits of sulfur and other mineral salts is everywhere you can see. Vast spaces of white surfaces with black dead trees with steaming spots here and there, close and far away. You walk as if you are on the surface of a different planet, stumbling here and there into the green or turquoise puddles with boiling water and high steam going up into the air.
Or, you walk and hear this roar coming out from under the ground and sure enough, you see the hole in the earth with periodical throws of boiling water and steam.
You can't help to think that all of it can blow up every minute with such a magnitude that, probably, entire Wyoming will become a big caldera. it is fascinating!
we saw the Steamboat geyser which, when it explodes, throws 200 meters high water and steam but it's explosion is unpredictable. We will see in a few days Old Faithful which explodes every hour like a clock. That's why it is named "Faithful"

Jan is back. So I owe the description of the Canyon and waterfalls of today.


Aug 24 .

Another bright morning in YS.
Today we are climbing Mt Washburn, and I owe an explanation as to why it is called this way. what I know is that it is a 6 miles hike and the weather on the top could change drastically so we are caring double sets of clothes.

So, what did we see yesterday. The Grand Canyon happened to be ....more than magnificent. the Canyon is about ....100 m deep and ...500 m at most wide at the top. millions of years ago it was all lava, and slowly Yellowstone river made its way through the magma and then whatever was left from the magma became the walls of the Canyon.

Aug 25
Today is Geyser day in the Old Faithful area.
what happened yesterday. we did the Mt. Washburn hike. it is one the highest mountain in the Ys park, I mean within the park. Mr. Washburn was an explorer. it was about a 5 hrs hike which consisted of over 2 hrs slow assent to the top with spectacular view of entire park and far away mountains in Montana on the north and Grand Tetons in the South with a view of Ys caldera, the lake and the Canyon the middle. this vast space that you can't take in always enthralls me, I never can have enough of these spectacular views.

Jan and John were with us, and John, given his age of 75 and recent recovery from an awful car accident in which he lost his wife, did very well making the entire hike up and down. Though he said at some point his arms went numb and that scared him. also, Theo managed to bump his head into the massive bronze telescope on the top of the mountain. The impact was so strong that he almost lost his consciousness, overwhelmed by a flush of strong nausea. Scared the s out of himself and me, especially recalling the accident with Natasha Richardson who died in a similar circumstance, I mean from a severe impact to her head. So, it took some time for Theo to recover format the shock, but then he was completely Ok.

In the evening we drove to the Lake area to have dinner with Jan and John in their elegant hotel restaurant. John gracefully offered this dinner as a gift to Theo's upcoming bd anniversary. It was very nice of him, and the dinner indeed was very nice in the beautiful elegant surrounding of the old fashioned hotel with a huge lobby with bay window overlooking the YS lake.
after dinner we took a walk in the full moon along the shore. It was post sunset time when full moon created a silver shimmering path across the lake and the far mountains, sharply shaped against the evening sky.


Aug 26

The last day in YS.
We took a long hike along the South rim of the Canyon, went somewhat in the back-country a little, visited some lakes.

Day was hot, the trail first went through the open area, and I wanted to go back being concerned about Theo's exposure to the sun, but he kept going and soon we entered a forest area, and kept going. I should admit that knowing how many bears are around it was an eerie feeling hiking alone, there were people here and there but not too many. At some point after about 2 hours of hiking we turned around and went towards the Canyon and the rest of the hike of 2.5 hrs we hiked along the rim, here and there enjoying the view of the canyon. Took tons of pictures. Came home, tired from the hike and the heat, bought cold beer, took a shower and..... Life is good!

At some point we met a German couple who watched a marmot in the binocular. we stopped, starting to talk and continue the hike together. They told they are coming to Usa almost every year and visit the national and state parks. They like and appreciate nature so much, have seen all of Europe, and now exploring Usa. The man said his is 58 and his goal is to visit all the states in the USA. He has 16 to go. From here they go to the Glacier Park and then to Washington to Helena.

Our favorite thing is to see the license plates of the cars on the parking lots. And the makes of the cars. So, most of the cars are from Idaho, Colorado, Utah, but also from Montana, Illinois, Washington, saw a car from San Jose. well, of course, Wyoming. Btw, our KIA has California license plates. among the cars makes I would say 50/50 Btw American make and Japanese. I was surprised to see so many American cars. But then... We are not in California. So, there is hope for the American car industry. Met people from all over the country, and many foreigners, most of them are family with children.

Since I did not read every day, I still have a lot to say about what we saw in the park . And the first place take the animals. And among them are Bisons. During my hikes in the solitude, which I like, since Theo goes usually slower, and somewhat behind, I murlychu the old song which I do not remember belongs to whom, I think it is from Kipling, but it goes like this.
hochu I tuda, gde bizonov staid,
gde u rechki pesok zolotoj,
gde po zerkalu void belyi lobed plyvet
ocharovannyi tihoi mechtoi.

or
I want to go the place
where are the herds of biz's
where golden sand lays on the banks of the river,
where the white swan slides on the mirror of the river surface,
Enchanted by the quiet dream.

so...... I think, that this is a perfect picture of Yellowstone.

here are the herds of biz's walking along the highway in the central part of the park which is caldera looking like a vast hilly green pastures. And you always can see the bisons in the distance. As I said, at first we were thrilled and excited seeing them literally next to your car, big animals with very gentle and cute faces, actually looking somewhat as cows but more dramatic, strong, and their coat looked like the lion cut on the Portuguese water dogs. sometimes they play in the grass raising columns of dust, sometimes they play-fight, goring each other with their horns, sometimes they just walk slowly along the highway totally oblivious of the traffic, holding it for miles and hours. But people are smiling, not angry, patiently waiting, taking pictures, watching in the binocular far away life. And never tired of seeing one more bison. We were still taking pictures every time we saw them, could not help ourselves. Though once in a while I would say Ok, We nabizonilis,enough.
we did not see many moose or elks, just a few, wish we saw more. They are such a graceful animals.
Theo was lucky to see a bear literally face to face just in a split second, after which the bear retreated back into the forest. Theo thought he saw the hump, meaning it was grizzly, but other people who happened to be there think it was a black bear.

we were lucky to spot a wolf while driving along the Hayden Valley. We stopped and watched him for about 5 min while he was hunting some little animal in the high grass, maybe a marmot. The wolf was approaching, watching, waiting, then leaped in the air and dived down, may be in the hole. It was a beautiful, silver wolf. A minute later we saw another wolf coming from the distance.
we saw couple of marmots, not sure what is it in Russian, a furry brown animal with yellow belly, with big furry tail, of the size bigger than a beaver. very cute and very fat.
I should say that these encounters with animals brought such a good and exciting feelings, and eagerness to see more and more of them that I have changed my opinion on going to Africa on safari with a good expedition. Theo wants very much, and I was somewhat apprehensive about it thinking that I would rather go seeing Norway's fjords or Tibet, Buddhist monasteries and Himalayas or Antarctica.....

Ok. Theo is napping after the long hike and a beer, and I have not even taken a shower yet. We also have to pack, tomorrow will be a long drive to Salt lake City and then flying home. We should get up early, meaning going to bed early, so Theo's napping at 6 pm is not good thing to do....
I owe description of the geysers and general Ys tips. not mentioning Jan and John.

Aug 27.
on the plane home. it took us 6.5 hrs to get from the West entrance to YS SLC ap on 15. We started in Montana, then drove through Idaho, then Utah.
Btw, on this flight they offer Internet connection for 5$. They said Delta had offered it on some flights for a year now, and connection comes from the ground, not satellite yet.
So, the summary of Yellowstone and why it is so different or so unique.
It has one of the four largest thermal activities, among Kamchatka, NewZealand and Chili. Indeed, I do not remember if I wrote about it. will reread and add if I have not.
It has a Great Canyon of unique colors of it's cliffs and rocks formations, I.e.combination of bright yellow,pink and white.
The upper and lower waterfalls the canyon are of ....50 and 93 meters meters tall and about 40 meters wide, and fall with such power.... Ive never seen. Nothing close to it in Yosemite or New Zealand. But I did not see Niagara or the one in Brazil/Argentina.
In any case. The views of the Canyon with the river rapids down at the bottom, with waterfalls with captured rainbow in the steamed moisture, the palette of colors of the canyon walls..... All of it is unforgettable. in fact, we dedicated two days for it.
And, the animals. The herds of bizons seen right outside of the car window.....elks and deers, wolf hunting for his prey.....
A variety of landscape: the mountains; the endless green hills; huge YS lake and many little ones; YS river, fasts streaming with strong turbulent rapids and wide and slow at the end before entering YS lake; endless pine forests; and vast spaces filled with geysers, hot sprigs, steaming mud, looking like landscape from a different planet.

Ys is the place for any budget. the accommodations vary from Campgrounds, simple cabins in the woods but with bathrooms and a shower for $70 a day, simple lodges to elegant old fashion hotels ( like Lake hotel) with rooms at $300 a day. The oldest hotel Old Faithful named after the nearby large geyser, is built at the end of 19th century, is unique. Built and decorated with logs, it has its charm, is very cozy and elegant. the lobby reminds the style of Hyatt at Union square in SF with the big opening in the middle, covered at the top. But imagine that every structure is made from logs, big and small, thick and thin. I an only imagine how nice it is there in the winter, with fireplaces, etc. Anyone can visit it, we, actually, had dinner there with Jan and John, but reservation should be made in a long advance, pretty much at the time you make reservations for lodging. The restaurant is very elegant, food is exceptional and not very expensive. I would recommend everybody to do it just for a nice experience. And no dress code. We hiked around geysers, then went to the restaurant, in shorts and hiking boots.
Bizon dish is on every restaurant menu in YS, but I did not dare to try. And no regrets.


Well... The plane is descending inSan Francisco. Vacations is over. Sad, but... Home, sweet Home ahead and...... Mamochka, Pusukuk tozhe zhdet.